🏁 Prologue – The Packing Chronicles

It all began with that rarest of phenomena in a modern household: free time. With summer vacations finally in full swing, our elder daughter Riyanshi—fresh from the literary high of publishing her first book “The Cullington’s”—deserved a well-earned creative break. And what better inspiration than nature, or more precisely, a tiger safari? After all, our last wild rendezvous was with the lions of Gir.

So, Ranthambore it was.

But then, the driver in me (who apparently doesn’t believe in rest) had a bigger vision. “Why stop at tigers when you can throw in a couple of jyotirlingas too?” Enter: Mahakaleshwar in Ujjain and Omkareshwar near Indore. This wasn't just going to be a holiday—it was going to be an epic, engine-powered yatra across Rajasthan and Madhya Pradesh.

Of course, with great plans come great overpacking. Snacks were stockpiled like we were preparing for a zombie apocalypse. Battery packs were charged, emergency bananas were bagged, and Google Maps was consulted more often than elderly relatives. Every hotel booking had its confirmation printout, and the backseat was divided (un)fairly between the kids.

What began as a breezy, “Let’s go see a tiger and maybe visit a temple or two,” had now snowballed into a multistate, multideity, multi-hotel pilgrimage. And I, naturally, was the designated driver for all 1,600+ km.

Let the odyssey begin.

🐅 Day 1 – 19th June: Into the Wild (Ranthambore)

Route: Delhi → Ranthambore via Delhi-Mumbai Expressway
Stay: Tiger Moon Resort

We kicked off the trip fashionably early by 6:30 AM—bags packed, playlists ready, and spirits soaring. The Nexon, shiny from a shampoo bath that morning, purred like a jungle cat as we cruised down the Delhi-Mumbai Expressway (NE4) via the Faridabad Spur.

After a smooth 3-hour run, growling tummies demanded a halt. With time on our side, we opted for an extended breakfast break at a café-style McDonald’s. The kids were deep in boba bliss, while we recharged on coffee and burgers, surrounded by other travellers equally smug about reaching early.

Clouds loomed overhead, suspiciously dramatic. We said a silent prayer for a dry safari and resumed the journey to Tiger Moon Resort, nestled inside the forest zone. We’d chosen it for that authentic “in the wild” feel—and it delivered. Trees, distant birdcalls, and just enough eerie silence to remind you that nature doesn’t care about your mobile signal. Adding to the charm were free-roaming deer and sambhars who clearly had full VIP access to the property, casually grazing near the cottages like seasoned resort guests.

After a quick check-in and change, we headed for our Zone 2 safari gate, brimming with excitement. And then, fate rolled up its sleeves.

The catervan—already overbooked—left me on a solo seat while my wife and kids were squeezed into a tight two-seater. No worries, we thought. What’s a little discomfort when tigers await?

Cue the rain gods, who apparently mistook our safari for a monsoon welcome party.

The moment we entered the park gates, the skies burst open. Torrential rain came crashing down. Our open-top catervan had the waterproofing of a paper cup. Within seconds, we were soaked to our socks, and for the next 90 minutes, we were part of what can only be described as a jungle swimming expedition. The safari became more about dodging muddy potholes and spotting puddles deeper than bathtubs. Tigers? They must’ve been sipping chai somewhere dry.

We returned to the hotel drenched, shivering, and mildly betrayed by the weather gods. After changing into dry clothes and popping a Crocin each, we emerged from the room to a new battle: cricket season—and not the kind on TV. With the rain came a flood of chirping, crawling, leaping insects claiming the property as their own.

But redemption came in the form of dinner. A surprisingly lavish spread greeted us—soups, curries, rotis, and desserts, all tasting better thanks to the day’s hardships. With bellies full and bodies warm, we retreated to our room for a round of family cards, some well-earned laughter, and finally, a good night’s rest under the canopy of the jungle.

🎯 Highlight: Number of tigers spotted – 0.
🎯 Number of insects spotted post-safari – Classified.

🕉️ Day 2 – 20th June: From Forest Trails to Holy Bells (Ranthambore → Ujjain)

Route: Ranthambore → Ujjain via Delhi-Mumbai Expressway & Aravalli Pass
Stay: MPT Shipra Residency

We began Day 2 with a solid breakfast and the illusion that we were rested. The Nexon, now mostly dry from yesterday’s safari monsoon wash, purred to life again as we rejoined the NE4 expressway. But soon, the landscape shifted. The straight-line asphalt gave way to undulating roads through the Aravallis, now decked in lush monsoon green—a rare and beautiful sight in Rajasthan. Hills rose around us like sentinels, and for a while, even the kids stopped bickering just to stare out the window.

By early afternoon, we rolled into MPT Shipra Residency in Ujjain—a centrally located, no-nonsense government hotel that felt refreshingly cricket-free and subtly premium, especially after our forest lodge the night before. The ample parking space made me want to hug the architect.

We decided to skip a full lunch in favour of hot pakodas, knowing the rest of the day would be temple-heavy. The ambitious plan: visit Mahakaleshwar in the evening, return for a quick nap, and then brave the 4 AM Bhasm Aarti.

Spoiler alert: only half of that happened.

In the early evening, we made our way to the old city. After parking the car (a minor pilgrimage in itself), we walked to Harsiddhi Mata Temple and—by some cosmic scheduling alignment—arrived just in time for the evening aarti. The entire temple glowed with rows of oil-lit diyas, creating an atmosphere so serene and otherworldly that it gave goosebumps. It was intoxicating in the most spiritual way, and we ended up staying longer than planned, quietly soaking in the divine light.

From there, we headed to the grand Mahakal corridor—a visual feast in itself. A little local negotiation (and a few extra bucks later), we secured VIP entry. Even with the special access, it took time to wade through the sea of devotees, each more determined than the next. But the moment we reached the shrine, all fatigue disappeared. The Mahakaleshwar Jyotirlinga, in its timeless stillness and grace, had a magnetic pull that silenced the mind. We offered prayers and stood for a moment longer than we were supposed to—because sometimes, time just pauses on its own.

We made our way back to the parking lot in satisfied silence, and the moment we reached the hotel, jumped straight into the buffet. After a stomach-full dinner (where even the salad felt divine), we faced the big question: Midnight darshan again or sleep?

Sleep won.

The Bhasm Aarti was respectfully postponed to “next time”, with a whispered promise: “We’ll be back... better rested.”

🎯 Highlight: Spiritual highs, stomach fulls, and the kind of peace you don’t find in metros.

🚩 Day 3 – 21st June: Caves, Chowkis & a Midnight Jyotirlinga Dash

Route: Ujjain → Indore (Chokhi Dhani) → Omkareshwar → back to Indore
Stay: Chokhi Dhani, Indore

We woke up a little late—understandably so, given the previous day’s holy hustle. After a quick breakfast and smooth checkout from MPT Shipra, we geared up for a day that was supposed to be relaxed. The plan was simple: enjoy a scenic drive to Indore, check into Chokhi Dhani, and let the kids loose in a land full of puppets, peacocks, and parathas.

But fate (and my persuasive wife) had other plans.

First, we made a muddy pilgrimage to Kaal Bhairav Temple. The overnight rain had transformed the entrance into a slushy, slippery obstacle course. We tiptoed barefoot across the muck like spiritual ninjas. After darshan, it took seven bottles of Bisleri to restore our feet to factory settings.

Next stop: Bhartrihari Caves. A quiet, mystical nook by the River Shipra, it offered a peaceful contrast to the buzzing temples. We breathed in the stillness, admired the caves, and let the kids guess which sadhu used which chamber.

Then began the leisurely drive to Chokhi Dhani Indore, along a newly constructed road that practically begged to be cruised. Upon arrival, we were traditionally welcomed with tilak, dhol, and several confused peacocks. The resort was buzzing with color, music, and enough activities to keep our girls happily occupied for a week. Safe to say, this was easily one of the best Chokhi Dhanis we’ve been to so far.

After a quick lunch, just as we were planning a lazy afternoon of camel rides and pottery, a local guide casually dropped the idea:
“Sir, Omkareshwar toh abhi ja sakte ho. 2.5 ghante mein pahuch jaoge.”

Wife’s eyes lit up. Kids were too full to protest. And I—despite the looming hills, rains, and bad roads—gave in.

We hit the road to Omkareshwar at 5 PM, the monsoon clouds casting a magical hue on the winding ghats. As expected, it was an adventurous stretch—steep inclines, under-construction patches, and trucks negotiating hairpin turns with the grace of elephants doing ballet. But with music playing and the car humming, we reached Omkareshwar by 7:30 PM.

It took another 30 minutes to reach the banks of the Narmada, where we negotiated a private boat ride to the island temple. The night view was surreal—the temple glowed under misty skies, its reflection shimmering in the river. We trekked the winding uphill path, reached the shrine, offered prayers, and sat in silence, soaking it all in. The fatigue of the day vanished in that one moment of calm.

By 9:30 PM, it was time to drive back. The return leg was intense—trucks, foggy curves, pouring rain, and zero visibility at times. But I was in my zone: headlights cutting through the dark, rain tapping on the windshield, and the family asleep, bundled up in the back. It was one of those moments where exhaustion and peace hold hands.

We reached Chokhi Dhani at 12:30 AM—silent, drenched in experience, and deeply content. No one spoke. We just unloaded and headed straight to bed.

🎯 Highlight: Darshan at Omkareshwar under the moonlit sky—unplanned, unforgettable.
🎯 Runner-up: Feet cleaned with bottled water like royalty.

🌧️ Day 4 – 22nd June: Peacocks, Pakoras & Potholes (Indore → Ranthambore)

Route: Indore (Chokhi Dhani) → Sawai Madhopur
Stay: Sterling Bagh Ranthambore

With Omkareshwar ticked off ahead of schedule, we were finally on the right side of our itinerary—and had a precious morning to relax at Chokhi Dhani, minus the tourist crowds and queue-jumping toddlers.

We made a beeline for the kids’ adventure zone, and this time, it wasn’t just about fun—it was about building character. Both daughters fearlessly tackled the Burma Bridge, hill climbing, and even a mini rappelling session, cheered on by proud parents with phones out and hearts full. Each activity earned them an extra dose of confidence (and a second serving of jalebi later).

After two hours of clean air, open skies, and peacock sightings, we headed to the lavish breakfast buffet—which, funnily enough, was originally planned for somewhere near Omkareshwar. But in hindsight, we were so glad we had it at Chokhi Dhani instead. The spread was warm, inviting, and just the kind of meal that makes you want to linger a little longer before hitting the road.

By late morning, it was time to hit the road again—for the long return ride to Ranthambore. And oh, what a ride it turned out to be.

The NE4 was less of a highway and more of a water park by this point. Heavy rains had waterlogged large stretches, forcing me to shift between cautious optimism and full-time aquaplaning. The car skidded more than it cruised, and Google Maps stopped sounding confident halfway through.

Lunch? Technically, no. But emotionally, yes. We survived the journey on roadside bhuttas, steaming maggi, and crispy pakoras—comfort food that somehow tastes better when eaten under a tin shade in the rain.

The only letdown? Not a single decent rest stop on the way. And this was a 7-hour drive, mind you—not some breezy weekend loop. It was as if all the planners assumed people don’t eat, pee, or breathe between states. Either that or they’re secretly testing how long Indian families can survive on roadside bhutta and sheer determination.

By early evening, after what felt like driving through every season in a day, we reached Ranthambore again—this time not for a tiger, but for rest and real pillows.

We checked into Sterling Bagh Resort, easily the most premium stay of the trip. Classy interiors, sprawling grounds, and... crickets again. But we were now veterans—battle-hardened from rain, road, and religion. Let the insects sing; we were just happy to have hot water and a proper mattress.

🎯 Highlight: Kids conquering mini-mountains.
🎯 Runner-up: Maggie, bhutta, and pakoras > fancy highway food.

🛣️ Day 5 – 23rd June: Forts, Faith & Farewell

Route: Ranthambore → Ranthambore Fort → Delhi
Stops: Ganesh Temple, Ranthambore Fort

Our final day began with a relaxed breakfast at Sterling, knowing full well that this was the last hotel buffet for a while. We packed up, checked out, and made one last detour before returning to the buzz of city life: a visit to the majestic Ranthambore Fort, especially the Ganesh Temple perched inside its storied walls.

We had booked a local driver and guide, who navigated the steep jungle paths to the fort like a pro. The drive itself was an adventure—narrow roads, wild greenery, and occasional monkey spectators watching us like we were part of their Netflix subscription.

At the top, our guide walked us through the fort’s incredible history—a living timeline carved into stone. Built by the Chauhan rulers in the 10th century, the fort was a military marvel, standing as a proud bastion against invaders. Its most dramatic moment came in 1303, when Alauddin Khilji laid siege and the royal women performed jauhar to avoid capture.

We explored its vast expanse—Toran Dwar, Mahadeo Chhatri, and Sametonki Haveli—each echoing with legends of Rajput valor. The presence of both a mosque and temple within its walls stood as a silent reminder of a time when rulers had a more inclusive idea of faith.

The Ganesh Temple, nestled within the fort, was bustling even early in the day. Devotees offered prayers with the same warmth and belief that had drawn generations here. Every year, a fair is held on Bhadrapad Sudi Chaturthi, but even on an ordinary day, the place hummed with reverence.

With that, our journey found its full circle—from tigers and temples to forts and family memories.

We began the long drive back to Delhi, tired but fulfilled. The Nexon had survived the monsoons, mountains, and music playlists. The kids had survived without Wi-Fi for nearly five days (miraculous!). And we, as a family, came back not just with photos, but with stories we’d probably keep retelling at every dinner for years to come.

🎯 Highlight: Climbing a 10th-century fort to end a 5-day odyssey.
🎯 Mood: Full hearts, muddy shoes, and a Nexon due for servicing.

📸 Epilogue – Of Kilometers, Chaos & Contentment

In the end, the numbers spoke for themselves:

• Kilometers Driven: 2,000
• States Crossed: 3
• Temples Visited: Many (but who's counting when the darshan’s good?)
• Wild Tigers Spotted: 0
• Monsoon Showers Survived: Countless
• Bottles of Bisleri Used on Feet: 7
• Bhuttas Eaten on Highway Shoulders: At least 4
• Complaints from the Kids: Surprisingly few
• Family Memories Made: Infinite

This wasn’t just the longest road trip I’ve done in my Nexon, it was the most fulfilling one too. From forest trails and flooded fort roads to spiritual highs at Jyotirlingas and adrenaline-packed hillside drives, this journey was everything rolled into one—wild, unpredictable, peaceful, exhausting, and absolutely unforgettable.

The car may need a service. The playlists need a refresh. But the heart? That’s full.

Until the next road calls…